Sweater Size Chart and Ease: How to Choose the Size to Knit
Standard body measurements from XS to 5X, what positive and negative ease mean, how much ease each fit needs, and how to pick your size in any pattern.
The short answer: measure your chest, add ease for the fit you want (5 to 10 cm for a standard sweater, 15 cm or more for oversized) and pick the size whose finished chest measurement is closest. Size names are not standard between patterns; the finished measurements are.
The biggest reason hand-knit sweaters don’t fit is choosing a size by its name. One designer’s M is another’s S. Every good pattern lists the finished measurements of each size, and those, together with your own body measurements and the ease you want, are all you need.
Body measurement size chart
These are the Craft Yarn Council’s standard chest (bust) measurements for adult sizes, used as a reference by many designers:
| Size | Chest / bust (in) | Chest / bust (cm) |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 28 – 30 | 71 – 76 |
| S | 32 – 34 | 81 – 86 |
| M | 36 – 38 | 91.5 – 96.5 |
| L | 40 – 42 | 101.5 – 106.5 |
| XL | 44 – 46 | 111.5 – 117 |
| 2X | 48 – 50 | 122 – 127 |
| 3X | 52 – 54 | 132 – 137 |
| 4X | 56 – 58 | 142 – 147 |
| 5X | 60 – 62 | 152 – 158 |
These are body measurements, not garment measurements. A sweater for a size M body will measure more than 91.5 to 96.5 cm around, by the amount of ease.
Ease: the difference between you and the sweater
Ease = finished garment measurement − body measurement.
| Fit | Ease at the chest | Looks like |
|---|---|---|
| Very close | 0 or negative | Stretches to fit, like a fitted top |
| Close | 2.5 – 5 cm (1 – 2 in) | Follows the body, fitted sweater |
| Standard | 5 – 10 cm (2 – 4 in) | A classic sweater with room to move |
| Loose | 10 – 15 cm (4 – 6 in) | Relaxed, easy to layer over a shirt |
| Oversized | 15 cm (6 in) or more | Deliberately roomy, dropped shoulders |
Patterns usually say how much ease they are designed for (“shown with 10 cm of positive ease”). That tells you how the sweater in the photos was worn, so you can match it or choose differently.
How to choose your size
- Measure your chest around the fullest part, under the arms, with the tape level. Measure over a thin top.
- Decide the fit. Use the pattern’s recommended ease, or pick from the table.
- Add them. A 94 cm chest with 8 cm of ease: aim for a finished chest of about 102 cm.
- Find the nearest size in the pattern’s finished measurements.
- Check the other numbers. Compare the pattern’s body length, sleeve length and upper arm with a sweater you like wearing. Lengths are easy to change as you knit; widths are not.
Where sweaters go wrong
- Shoulders and upper arms. If your chest puts you in a larger size but your shoulders are narrow, the larger size can sag at the shoulders. Many knitters choose by upper chest (measured above the bust, under the arms) and add width at the body.
- Gauge. The finished measurements only hold at the pattern’s gauge. One stitch off in 10 cm changes a 100 cm chest by 4 to 5 cm. Knit and wash a swatch first: how to measure gauge.
- Stretchy fibres and blocking. Superwash wool and cotton can grow after washing. Measure the swatch after it has been washed and dried.
Knitting to your own measurements
When no size fits, you can recalculate with your gauge: the number of stitches around the chest is the finished chest in cm ÷ 10 × your stitches per 10 cm. The gauge calculator does the conversion, and the yarn amounts guide helps you buy enough yarn for your size.
For colourwork sweaters, a chart at your own gauge shows how the motif repeats fit the stitch count. You can draw one in Knytstudio and get the row-by-row instructions with it.
Frequently asked questions
What is ease in knitting?
Ease is the difference between the garment's measurement and your body's measurement. A sweater with a 100 cm chest on a 90 cm chest has 10 cm of positive ease. Negative ease means the garment is smaller than the body and stretches to fit.
How much ease should a sweater have?
For a standard fit, about 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 in) at the chest. A close fit has 2.5 to 5 cm, a loose fit 10 to 15 cm, and an oversized sweater 15 cm or more.
Should I choose my size by chest or by finished measurement?
By finished measurement. Measure your chest, add the ease you want for the fit, and pick the size whose finished chest is closest to that number. Size names like M or L differ between designers.
How do I measure my chest for knitting?
Measure around the fullest part of the chest or bust, under the arms, with the tape level all the way round and snug but not tight. Measure over a thin top, not a thick sweater.
What if I am between two sizes?
Look at the finished measurements and the ease each size gives you. For a looser fit choose the larger, for a closer fit the smaller. If your shoulders are narrower than your chest suggests, the smaller size with a little extra body width is often the better fit.